A bathroom is one of the smallest rooms in your home. It also packs plumbing, electrical, ventilation, tile, and glass into a few square feet. Every choice affects the next one.
Make these seven decisions before demolition starts. Changing them mid-project costs time and money.
1. Keep or Move the Plumbing
Moving a toilet, shower, or sink means moving drain and supply lines. On a slab foundation, that can mean cutting concrete. Keeping fixtures in their current spots is usually the biggest cost saver in a bathroom remodel.
If the current layout does not work, move fixtures for a clear reason, like adding space at the shower entry. Then budget for it from the start.
2. Check the Clearances
The International Residential Code sets minimum clearances. Common ones include:
- At least 21 inches of clear space in front of a toilet
- At least 15 inches from the center of the toilet to any side wall or fixture
- At least 24 inches of clear space in front of a shower entrance
Local codes can add to these. A layout that meets code on paper can still feel tight, so tape the outlines on the floor before you commit.
3. Plan Ventilation
Moisture damages paint, grout, and cabinets over time. A properly sized exhaust fan removes it. The Home Ventilating Institute suggests 1 CFM of airflow per square foot of floor space for bathrooms up to 100 square feet, with a 50 CFM minimum.
Vent the fan to the outside, not into the attic. Run it during your shower and for about 20 minutes after.
4. Choose Your Shower Glass
Shower glass sets the look of the room. Your options include:
- Framed doors: Metal frames around the glass. They often use thinner glass and cost less.
- Semi-frameless: Some metal, usually at the edges, with less visible hardware.
- Frameless: Thicker glass, often 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch, held with clips and hinges.
Glass in a shower enclosure must be safety glazing under the IRC. That usually means tempered glass, which breaks into small pieces rather than sharp shards.
Order glass after tile is done. The installer needs to measure the finished opening. Tile adds thickness, and walls are rarely perfectly plumb. A custom glass installer measures each wall at several points. The team at All Glass recommends a final measurement only after the tile and curb are set, so the panels fit the space as built.
5. Pick Fixtures Before Rough-In
Your plumber sets valves and drains during rough-in. The valve must match the shower trim you buy. Choose your shower valve, faucet, and toilet before rough-in day so nothing needs to be redone.
6. Plan Electrical Needs
The National Electrical Code requires GFCI protection for bathroom receptacles. Beyond that, decide on:
- Lighting at the mirror, ideally at face height on both sides
- An outlet inside a vanity drawer for hair tools
- Heated floors, which need their own circuit in many cases
- A fan with a humidity sensor, which turns on by itself
All of this wiring goes in before drywall.
7. Know Your Permit Rules
Most cities require permits when you change plumbing, electrical, or structure. In the Kansas City area, rules vary between Missouri and Kansas cities and between suburbs. Check with your city before work begins. Unpermitted work can cause problems when you sell.
Homeowners who research home remodeling kansas city contractors often ask who pulls the permit. Project managers at WeBuildKC suggest getting that answer in writing in your contract. The contract should also list the scope, the payment schedule, and who orders each material.
Set Your Budget With a Buffer
Opening walls can reveal rot, old wiring, or leaks. Set aside 10% to 20% of your budget for surprises. If you do not need it, you can spend it on finishes at the end.
Your Pre-Demo Checklist
- Final layout with clearances confirmed
- Fan size and vent route chosen
- Shower glass style picked
- Fixtures and valves purchased
- Electrical plan marked on the drawings
- Permits filed
- Contingency set aside
Check off each item before the first tile comes off the wall.